SOUTH SHIELDS TO TYNEMOUTH

From South Shields Metro Station, the ferry is about a five minute walk.

Below are some maps to guide you through your walk into Tynemouth.

As you step off the ferry follow the signs to North Shields Fish Quay which dates back to the 13th Century. In 1225 a village of shielings (fisherman's huts) stood where the Quay is today. North Shields took it's name from the shielings and the fact it stands on the north bank of the Tyne. There are a number of historic buildings, notably Clifford's Fort, built in 1672 as a coastal defence against the Dutch. It is still a working quay today with traditional seafood businesses including wet fish shops and a wide range of places to eat, from fish restaurants to stylish brasseries. The history of the Fish Quay is told through a series of panels from the ferry landing to Clifford's Fort explaining the history of many landmark buildings, telling stories and explaining how the Fish Quay developed from the beginning to the present day.

The Custom House Quay was named long before there was a custom house in the town. It is the traditional home of the North Shields Wooden Dollies. Shipowner and brewer Alexander Bartleman erected the first dolly, an old ship’s figurehead, in 1814: it has become a beloved local landmark. It became the custom for sailors to cut off slivers for good luck. To date there have been a total of six dollies. Some locals initially resented Dolly as her position in the road blocked their carts from entering the Quay. They tied ropes to her ankles and used her to drag heavy masts up the banks of the Quay, causing her great harm. In 1850, to the dismay of some locals, Dolly was attacked by a group of drunken vandals who broke her neck and ripped her body from the ground.

A new Dolly was erected as a replacement and she became a good luck charm to sailors, who chipped pieces from her to carry on perilous voyages. Inevitably, after 14 years of abusive chippings, Dolly had once again become damaged beyond repair. A second replacement was made, but the good luck chippings continued and by the third, Dolly was without a nose. A local blacksmith made Dolly a replacement nose out of iron to prevent sailor chippings, but instead the sailors found their good luck by nailing coins to her body. Dolly eventually succumbed to her wounds and was broken in half. Her replacement, largely paid for by donations from locals, survived 55 years but thousands of good luck chippings once again left her unrecognisable. In 1992, the most recent Dolly was placed on the Fish Quay at the same site as her forebears, outside the Prince of Wales Tavern, proudly watching over the Tyne.

It is worth a little walk to Tyne Street to look out towards South Shields, the Fish Quay below and the River Tyne. The climb up the stairs from the Fish Quay to Tyne Street is rewarded with magnificent views up and down the river. A short walk away is Dockwray Square where there is a statue of comic legend Stan Laurel. His childhood house was also in Dockwray Square, although the house no longer survives. His father was a theatre manager in North Shields and it is said that the steps down to North Shields Fish Quay inspired the famous piano moving scene in The Music Box.

The High and Low lights were constructed near the fish quay in the first half of the 16th century as it helped pilots navigate along the Tyne as they followed the vertical alignment of these two lights. This helped them avoid the dangerous Shields Bad and Black Middens. The Old Low Light Grade 2 listed building and Clifford’s Fort gallery is open 10am to 5pm daily and the café 10am to 4pm daily. Entrance to the heritage gallery and exhibitions is £3.00 per adult and under 16’s are free. The free to enter gift shop and café has free WiFi and quite often has live music on Saturday mornings and Sunday afternoons. It also has a lovely large outside terrace in the summer. The heritage centre has a viewing platform on the top floor where you can take in breathtaking views of the mouth of the Tyne.

You can also find two Georgian cannons on the ramparts of Clifford’s Fort and a statue called Fiddler's Green which sits overlooking the River Tyne. It is a memorial to North Shields fishermen lost at sea and was created by local artist Ray Lonsdale. The plaque on the base reads: ‘To the fishermen lost in the cold North Sea, and the ones who will be so, I’ll be seeing you all on Fiddler’s Green, be steady as you go.’ ‘For Fiddler’s Green is a place I’ve heard tell, though no one really knows, where the fishermen go if they don’t go to hell, and no Arctic wind will blow.’

Carry onto the promenade which stretches east from the quay towards the mouth of the River Tyne, with superb views of the river entrance, the piers and Collingwood Monument. It eventually brings you to a headland known as the Spanish Battery where the magnificent Tynemouth Priory & Castle comes into view.

The Tyne’s two piers, Tynemouth and South Shields were built to shelter the mouth of the Tyne from the full force of the sea and prevent shipwrecks. Tynemouth Pier was completed in 1895, but two years later was almost destroyed by a huge storm. It was rebuilt in 1909 by John Wolfe-Barry, who designed and constructed the Tower Bridge in London. The piers have protected the Tyne for over 100 years, extending 899 metres from Tynemouth Priory and 1570 metres from South Shields. Both are heritage sites and open to the public in hours of daylight, depending on weather conditions.

As you walk along the promenade to the right you will see the Black Middens. The Black Middens are a rock formation at the mouth of the River Tyne. Many ships have been wrecked on the Black Middens over the years. The completion of the North Pier and South Pier at the mouth of the Tyne improved safety, but the rocks still remain a potential hazard.

Once you have walked past Admiral Lord Collingwood’s monument and read his story you will see his presence is everywhere in the North East from the streets to the buildings.

Cuthbert Collingwood is known as ‘the Northumbrian who saved the nation,’ but he is also a forgotten North East hero. He is the man who saved the British Navy together with his close friend Horatio Nelson at the Battle of Trafalgar. He fired the first shot at Trafalgar and took over command of the British fleet after the death of his friend Nelson. It seems sad that Nelson’s name has been immortalised as he has flocks of visitors to his monument compared to Collingwood’s whose contribution was immense. Then when I read the words on his memorial I understood.

‘He was a typical north countryman - never duly elated by success or depressed by failure, caring little for public applause.’

Carry on past Lord Collingwood’s monument up to Tynemouth Priory and Castle which is located on a rocky headland, overlooking Tynemouth Pier. The moated castle towers, gatehouse and keep are combined with the ruins of the Benedictine Priory where early kings of Northumbria were buried. The coat of arms of the town of Tynemouth still includes three crowns commemorating the tradition that the Priory had been the burial place for three kings.

Continue walking on to Tynemouth High Street, where you will reach the victorian station which features a number of specialist and general market stalls, offering a real variety of goods and collectibles on Saturday and Sundays from 9am to 3.30pm.

This post will be updated any time we find new spots in Tynemouth, so keep an eye out on social media.